OHHHHH SURFING! My new love. As you know, I fell in love with CA this past week while there. I mean REALLY fell in love. A huge part of that was the fact that I took a surfing lesson for the very first time. Jolene, my amazing friend who met me in CA for the weekend, Facebook messaged me last week with a link to a surf school saying “would you ever try this” I think my initial answer was something like “Absolutely, but you don’t see a lot of big gals on surf boards?” I felt her eye roll through the computer, but she knew that wouldn’t stop me. She sent me a link to Aqua Surf. A surfing company that has been awarded the best surf school in southern CA by the City of Santa Monica. It looked cool and, well, let’s be honest, I had no clue what to look for, so we signed up and crossed our fingers. Well, the fingers crossed worked because this was one of the greatest and most life changing experiences of my life. Let me say that again, this surfing experience literally changed my life. Period. I workout a ton and I try a lot of new things that I love. Most new things I say, absolutely, I want to try that again. I left this lesson saying “I want to do this everyday of my life.” Period. What an absolute and incredible thrill. What a challenge of mind, body, spirit and passion. There are so many incredible components that go on when you surf. Not only is it just throwing yourself in the ocean, but it is really becoming one with the most powerful force on our Earth. I might get a little weird now, but you are literally pairing yourself with something that is set by the moon and the lunar movements. That, to me, is powerful in itself. Separate from that, it is an incredible connection of your mind and strength. Let me be very clear about something, you can be the greatest athlete in the world, but you get on a surf board and think you will fail or worry about the waves… you will. I think that’s pretty true in life in general.
So, we got to where the van was and met Alan – the man in charge of the operation. He was funny and full of quick witted jokes. My kind of guy. We changed into our wet suits and met him on the beach where he had two boards sitting in the sand waiting for us.
I had the longer board and Jolene had the short board – shorter boards are more difficult, especially for beginners.We started our beach lesson, learning how to paddle, jump up and turtle roll. That was pretty easy.
Next up? Trying it all in the water. In the water, my instructor was Tom. Tom showed me how to get through the waves coming at me as they broke… in my face. It was great. I really loved every part of it. After we got far enough in the water, it was time for me to lay on the board and Tom helped push me into the wave as I paddled. Paddling is tough! For real. But also, awesome.
The first few times I got familiar with the board in the water… what a nice way for me to say that I did not get up. But, after the third or fourth time I did it and I did it over and over. It was so incredible. I had some troubles once I rode the board… or fell off the board, walking back with the board to where Tom was with waves bitch slapping me. But, it was a challenge and we all know I love a challenge.
Before we started surfing, the instructors were telling us how surfing is everything and how you will not ever want to do anything else in your life. I thought, when they were saying it, it was cute… but now I get it!
Surfing resonated with me more than I ever thought possible. I truly want to do that for the rest of my life and I just want to become one with the water and learn. Learn through patience, understanding and feeling of what surfing is and what it can be.
Plus, it’s just kind of totally badass!
Seriously, everyone who has ever even thought about surfing, you have to try it. And, I would absolutely suggest, if in LA, trying Aqua Surf.